Flight of Fancy...Bali and Beyond: No.1
The final pack- what to take out?...Natasha emerged with lots of useful travel companions- surf watch,lock, cable,storage bags and travel advice, the main one being to find somewhere we like and stay there...
Thursday April 15th The Airport
The intrepid travellers leapt out of bed at 4.45 AM, ready to spring into action for the airport drive...Kindly Alexander emerged, bleary eyed and shoeless to accompany us to the airport and then drive home. Checked in- but then directed to 'oversized luggage' for George's guitar. Next step was into immigration, no beeps for self or problem with hand luggage, until an officious woman beckoned - I was to have a random bag and body check. I imagined being led into a room and the rest I preferred not to imagine. The woman waved the scanner across my hand luggage, then me- even asked to put my arms out while she did it! So all well- and security risk number 1 was allowed to go...
The difficulties weren't to stop there! We changed some money, and I looked for my passport and boarding pass. Nowhere!!! Retraced my steps- not at the washbasin...out to money changer who said that someone had taken them to gate 5-rushed over there- noone there! Kept walking frantically around, trying to find an official place, and then an announcement...passenger... please come to Gateway 5- and raced around there. George had got there before me, and thankfully, there it was. Safely in my hands I thought to myself...'and we haven't even left the airport!
The Plane
On the plane all smooth for everyone. Plane reasonably empty- we could stretch out across the middle seat. It flew quite low, so the redness of the centre, salt lakes, the barren dessert, Ayer's Rock- all could be made out. We passed the time- reading (I picked up a book just prior to leaving by Pom with whom I'd shared a house with in Canberra- it continues to entertain me, and brings back memories of life there!), looking out the window, enjoying the 'Dragon Fruit Juice' looking forward to arrival.
Denpasar Ngurah Rai Airport
A blanket of heat- quick getaway with luggage and through customs (nothing opened!)...immigration arrival sheet cautioned 'Death penalty for drugs'...then outside where hundreds of drivers awaited holding name signs- and mine was right near the front...then off to Keke's Homestay with Puta our driver, who was quick to answer our many questions.
Denpasar
A feast for our eyes- traffic everywhere, motorcycle upon motorcycle. When entering the road from the left we merged in front of a battalion of motorcycles, and later discovered that anyone in front of you has right of way, so the car backing out has right of way! The beautiful tropical plants, incredible statues...vendors, people,...and more motorbikes....
Sanur
Keke's welcomed us- a quiet oasis and we settled into our rooms. Hot and humid- incredibly sticky. We had all the comforts- even hot water, a good fan, and two chairs on the verandah. The room was basic but clean. A stroll down to the Sanur Beach in the middle of the day was greeted by many offers of massages, food, shopping...which we carefully avoided...a quick snack, and back to Keke's for a rest and refresh....The first day felt like a week!
Sanur Friday April 16
Breakfast- scrambled eggs on Keke's verandah with tea, toast and fresh fruit and an introduction to the various travellers. Two young English school girls (Katie and Isabel), staying at Keke's, but their parents around the corner- eating scrambled eggs on jam toast- a treat new to them, but definitely recommended! A day spent wandering- looking around the main street...trying to adjust to the heat...George had a swim...I read and talked with other neighbours...the couple from London who'd just been to Australia (even to the Grand Prix) and had some world news- told me about the Icelandic volcano and the consequences, and the Danish couple- who gave me lots of travel tips- where to stay at Ubud and Lembongan...and how to navigate this new computer (their one was identical)...Our first real meal- and we dined in style. We've discovered the fresh fruit juices...so much so that a Bintag (or other alcoholic beverage) hasn't been tried yet. Hard to imagine in the tropics I know...
Verdant rice paddy- Ubud
Ubud Saturday April 17th
We felt very privileged to be picked up from our Keke's Oasis (right at the door...or, more correctly, Keke's verandah)...for our next leg- Ubud. Finally our bus (a rather old model- no seat belts nor aircon) chuffed off, with the driver who was decidedly unfriendly, surly in fact. Along the way we were greeted in the traffic jam, with boys selling newspapers (wrapped in plastic). 'Where do you come from?' 'Melbourne' I said...'Do you want The Sun?' Not sure which year it was but the headline read ' Blues Victory over Hawks' A good omen...Then we drove along, and suddenly a quite sharp bang (in fact someone said- we've done an axle)...and in about 10 seconds the bus stopped- lifeless. The driver tried a number of possibilities all to no avail, and without a word (at any stage) hopped off the bus and wandered off. Soon after, taking his cue we hopped out as well... On his return he mentioned a mechanic (he would pick him up on a motorbike, or so we gathered)...so we continued to wait at the side of the road. The roads can't take the volume of traffic so the bus blocking part of the lane caused a degree of chaos. Finally the mechanic arrived, identified the problem (a blocked petrol tube, which he cut off).. and then we were off.
Ubud greeted by many offering rooms, taxis. Eventually we followed one of the men to his lodgings which were good- spacious, with a balcony overlooking Ubud, and headed off for lunch and to explore, and landed at Monkey Forest Sanctuary. The monkeys were very cute- but very cheeky. They happily sat on your lap or head- with the express purpose of stealing whatever looked appealing. One sat behind George, fiddling with the zip on his pack, another carefully took one of my earrings and headed for the trees!
Verandah at Ubud
Ubud Sunday April 1st
A quick pack, and we were ready for breakfast- banana pancakes, fruit and tea...Delicious!
Our Ubud stay was short- the incense and smoke playing havoc on George's sinuses...and he longed for the beach...
The verdant rice paddies and palm trees were left behind as we made our next move- to Nusa Lembongan.
Monkey Forest Sanctuary
So it was back to Sanur for the boat- and we waited patiently, taking in a much more relaxed atmosphere compared with the first introduction to the beach. Local children dived around in the the water as adults watched on, some buying lunch from a vendor on the beach. Our luggage was loaded onto the roof, then it was time to board. Just as I was about to go aboard a wave came in..soaking my two bags, but fortunately no damage...A very wavy roller coaster trip of about 90 mins to Lembogan but the expansive sea was beautiful.
Nusa Lembongan- boat (luggage on top)
Nusa Lembongan
With great anticipation we waited for the boat to stop. Our gear was unloaded, and again we were greeted by a number of offers of rooms. I walked along the concrete promenade, but eventually decided to go with the first place, close to the boat landing, set at the back with views of the beach (just!)...We have another place next door and share the verandah, which, like everywhere we've stayed, has two chairs on it. This place also has a table and chair inside, hence making it easy to type or do anything that requires a table and hood seating position. The drawback we soon discovered- the toilet doesn't flush...nor do any here- so we were promptly given a bucket and scoop- works well! Just as effective as the push button- if not a bit more time-consuming. I had a scout around the local streets and found a good place to eat, where we've eaten ever since. The afternoon was spent on the beach and watching the local seaweed industry, the mainstay of the island. In the late afternoon work starts, right into the evening. From what I can gather seaweed is collected from the shallows, taken out in boats to and is put onto ropes, then later is brought back to land and dried. Men, women and children are involved- little boys engaged themselves skilfully catching little worms- for fishing. The main fish is tuna...a treat in store....The activity continues up until it's dark.
Lembongan Monday April 19th
A wet night- they say it flooded in Bali. It seems that it was a very dry wet season- so the priests all got together to pray for rain...and they say it's been raining ever since.. The local boat arrived with stores and women came to take it back to the store- carrying two bags of rice weighing an total of 50 kilos on their heads. A local explained that a family of four eats about 1 bag per week, and the bag costs 150,000 Rupiah (about $23). They generally cook vegetables and tuna, and eggs...Chicken is too expensive.
A walk beyond the village was punctuated by the noise of motorbikes (locals and tourists) as they vanished over the crest. Palm trees swayed and we kept a respectful distance (the sound of a coconut dropping is very loud...but our local assured us that you just feel stunned for while and then all is fine). Back home and we talked with some girls from Amsterdam who'd been teaching for 8 weeks at Ubud. They're hoping to fly out on KLM in the next couple of days but are also apprehensive about being the 'guinea pigs'. One reflected that they may stop off in Turkey and get the train for the rest of the way.
Lembongan Tuesday April 20th
A relatively cold night- no fan! Hard to imagine after some of the stifling nights.
We had planned to possibly hire two motorbikes today- but the weather wasn't right...In fact while I sit and type it's teeming. This place doesn't provide breakfast so at 11.40 we're both somewhat peckish! In desperation I figured that I'd make some peppermint tea, using a brilliant water heater (really just a portable element)- by catching the rain water that's bucketing off our roof. So I collected it in a matter of minutes- and thought it should just about be boiled by now...and realised that the power was off (how reminiscent of Groote Eylandt)...Also happened yesterday, but was fixed in a few hours...so we have to wait, even for the peppermint tea...
The Perama tourist boat from Sanur has arrived- with lots of people with packs scurrying to shore...before they work out where to stay. The rain will need to ease before they venture from the shelter of Perama's balcony. I would have liked to go and watch the arrival of the boat (part of the regular entertainment of the day) but the rain prevents me. Must buy an umbrella or rain poncho!...Still raining...still no power and it's 2.00. Hunger will soon drive us out, raining or not!
